Developing script which may be used for a soundslide about South Sudan. Still some research to do checking accuracy and no idea how the length will work out with image length. It feels like that last sentence is floating in space also. Comments welcome.
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There are parts of the world where politics is locked up, immobilised by power too centralised and bureaucratic sludge, and there are others where it’s very much active and relevant. African politics in particular is ever turbulent. For decades things can go along in a kind of stalemate, before one day it erupts, a window of opportunity appears – a real chance for progress – and people can either take it or let the opportunity slip away with the resulting misery.
South Sudan’s Indepenence in July of 2011 has offered one such opportunity. Locked in Africa’s longest civil war for four decades, Sudan’s recent history is perhaps as turbulent as any. Sudan’s borders, like many of Africa’s boudaries, were drawn up on European soil, and left disparate peoples trying to operate under one government. South Sudan’s separation to form the world’s 193rd nation voted for by 98% of South Sudan’s population, is the first time that African borders have been redrawn from within Africa.
But even in a continent where you think every political scenario might’ve been played out before, the split of Sudan can be seen in a Black and white rarely seen in African politics. South Sudan remains one of the most undeveloped countries in the world. South Sudan’s reserves of oil and Uranium are relatively undeveloped, offering a very faint glimmer of hope that extraction might not neccesarily destroy the fabric of the country on a politic and social economic level. Or it may be the poisoned chalice that leads back to war.
From a few weeks in South Sudan, while I saw one of the poorest countries in the world economically, I also saw one of the richest places on earth culturally. The dirt tracks that criss cross the vast expanse can lead you to colourful peoples you will could not have imagined. Their elemental lifestyle somehow gives you the feeling that being with them, you are that much closer to fire, water, courage, fear, life and death. They touched me on a profound level I haven’t found elsewhere.
On visiting the cattle camps in Bor district, you can see humans co-existence with cattle has synenergised into a way of life which evolved through the centuries. People and cattle. Their nomadic lives might be admirable and incredible, but they are far from idealistic. Lack of sanitation, healthcare and education make the cattle camps centres of disease and malnurishment. Many are literally covered in cow shit from head to toe – even their orange and green hair dye is made from cow urine and shit. It’s an assault that means it’s survival of the fittest – from before they are born babies must have or develop immunity, or not make it through. But some do make it through, and for them our arrival offered some hope that we would click our fingers and white power and money would bring medicines and treatments for them and their cattle. But even without medicines, education derived from modern science would say the first step would be to limit the spread of disease by putting some distance between them and their cattle. And the process of ‘development’ immediately starts to errodethe character that makes these people so remarkable.
It reminded me of a story relating to the expedition that successfully conquered Everest in 1967. With the party returning through the foothills of the Himalaya, Urkien Sherpa, who had lived there all his life, was asked what he thought of the successful conquering of the mountain they had lived next to for generations. He paused for a moment and replied ‘I do not envy your restless spirit’. He had highlighted a fundamental difference that separated peoples around the world. As some believed in ‘progress’ – pushing science, developing medicines, and structures that reached into the sky – others simply believed in being.
There can be no right or wrong, but I stood in awe looking at people at the camp, and they stood in awe looking at me.